An Open-Air Experience Under the Stars
On a crisp September afternoon, we drove 1.25 hours west from Durango to experience a unique evening of storytelling and music in McElmo Canyon. At Canyons of the Ancients Guest Ranch, the intrepid nature writer Craig Childs joined fellow Four Corners’ dwellers to celebrate the autumnal equinox for what has become a very special annual event.
Just outside Cortez, past the Municipal Airport, we dropped into McElmo Canyon and felt the old spirits lingering in this sacred area. The 20-minute drive on County Road G winds along the backside of Sleeping Ute Mountain, past Sutcliffe Vineyards, almost to the Utah border. We had to pay attention to the minimal signage but soon found the gate and parking area. Taking our folding chairs and jackets, we made the short hike up the road to the gathering place. Shuttles were provided for those who didn’t care to walk.
Sky Village, the newest section of Canyons of the Ancients Guest Ranch, was the site for the performance and provided a beautiful setting with panoramic vistas in all directions. It was built during the COVID-19 pandemic and finished in 2023 by Garry and Ming Adams, owners of the guest ranch. Located on a hillside at the site of an ancient village, the Adamses had two extraordinary buildings constructed: Sky Kiva and Star Tower, both inspired by the ruins of Hovenweep National Monument and the surrounding area.
Sky Kiva is a pleasing blend of primitive aesthetics and modern comforts. It features a unique circular chamber with a 20-foot-high ceiling, where the incredible acoustics are perfect for music or meditation. The main section has an open floor plan with a king-sized bed and a fully equipped kitchen. Another remarkable aspect is the amazing back porch, which enhances the majestic views and is decorated with an eagle dancer statue.
Across the way is Star Tower, a two-story structure built to incorporate a massive rock formation for part of its wall. The upper deck off the main bedroom provides an excellent view of the night sky. The structures authentically blend with the setting and are just a short walk from the ruins on the property.
Originally part of the legendary 6,000-acre Elden Zwicker family ranch, Canyons of the Ancients Guest Ranch now occupies about a third of the property and includes some of the original structures that Garry and Ming have lovingly restored. The Adamses bought nearly 2,000 acres from the youngest Zwicker son in 2005 and set about fulfilling their ranching, farming, and hospitality dreams. What they have created is very special indeed, a combination of beautiful nature and ranch life alongside the mysteries of the ancient world. The Guest Ranch features seven uniquely themed cabins, all beautifully furnished and decorated in the Southwestern style.
The title of the evening’s presentation, Time Traveler’s Notebook, was intriguing. As we mingled with other attendees, we anticipated what the evening might hold while enjoying fry bread, gyros, and wine from the neighboring vineyard. The performance space was actually the front porch of the Star Tower cabin, with the front door set up as the stage entrance. The audience took their seats as the sun set, and the two performers entered wearing robot headpieces. Like time travelers, they reported on what they discovered during their journeys into the past, perhaps predicting what would happen in the future.
Craig Childs is an excellent storyteller who captured our attention by describing his adventures in the area. Greg Istock, the musician accompanying Mr. Childs, kept a clock-like rhythm on a cowbell as the evening unfolded. They explored themes of time through earth sciences and ancient ancestry while honoring the rich culture that was and is still present here. With projected images, lights, and sound, the evening was part performance art and part lecture. Late in the program, Mr. Istock performed some chant-like pieces along with his electric guitar. The presentation fit perfectly with the ancient setting. It was a mind-expanding and thought-provoking experience.
Mark your calendars now because the ranch is planning a similar Autumnal Equinox celebration with Craig Childs on Saturday, September 20, 2025. Other artists have performed at Sky Village, including singer Amy Helms and author Pam Houston. Sky Village is also ideal for weddings, banquets, or retreats.
Well worth the drive, a performance at Star Village is sure to make a lasting impression on every guest. Please visit their website, canyonoftheancients.com, for more information on upcoming events.
By Billy Grimes
