Looking back down the steep slope, a string of people lines up below me. Their heads are down, poles in hand, as they step into the boot holes stamped by those before them. Skis and snowboards strapped to their packs stick up awkwardly. Some talk to their neighbors, but most focus on the effort of the climb. When I turn my gaze up and outward, I behold the rugged, snow-covered skyline of the San Juan Mountains.
We are near the beginning of the Million Dollar Traverse, a ski tour across the northern San Juan Mountains. Over five days, the route crosses high passes, winds through alpine basins, and descends steep slopes to end at three mountain lodges. Natural and historical forces have shaped the route and its landscape. Long before skis touched these slopes, the Ute people seasonally traveled along similar routes until they were forcibly displaced in the early 1800s. Around that same time, a financier named Otto Mears carved a toll road for miners through the same mountains, a route that later became known as the Million Dollar Highway. Today, the ski traverse allows backcountry travelers to weave their own story into that long and complex history.
Day 1: Ophir Pass Road to Opus Hut
The tour begins on Ophir Pass Road, north of Silverton. The skintrack follows the rugged, unplowed road like a handrail, making the navigation of this leg relatively easy. However, the danger is real, considering massive avalanche paths cross the route, demanding caution, critical timing, and sound decision-making. If lucky, a moose may be seen foraging in the woods, a reminder that these mountains teem with more than just humans.
The day ends at the Opus Hut, perched on a bench near treeline, overlooking an expansive and majestic panorama. Inside, the smell of hot soup greets tired travelers after enjoying multiple ski laps in the terrain surrounding the lodge. Guests kick off their boots in the entryway, store gear in their rooms, and head for the luxury of warmth and delicious food, satisfying their souls before heading off to bed.
Day 2: The Bootpack and Red Mountain Alpine Lodge
An early start with an ascent into the alpine leaves the trees to serve as a carpet of green below. Soon, the limit of skins is reached, and touring equipment must be strapped to packs for the traverse’s one steep bootpack, ending at a 13,000-foot col. Avalanches and hard snow are potential hazards that demand careful evaluation of the conditions and one’s abilities. If all favorably align, the climb opens the gate to the rest of the day’s tour.
Over the ridge, the terrain eases into broad basins framed by jagged skylines. Multiple excellent descents drop into a progressive series of drainages that eventually lead to the magnificent Red Mountain Alpine Lodge, or RMAL, waiting in the trees just out of sight of the highway. Walking through its entrance corridor reveals soaring windows, vaulted ceilings, and splendid views of Red Mountain’s rust-colored slopes. A crackling fire, cozy nooks, warm showers, comfortable beds, and expertly prepared food conclude a long day in the mountains. This marks the heart of the traverse.
Day 3: A Day at Red Mountain
Most people take a layover at the RMAL, choosing to either rest or explore the world-class skiing nearby. For some, it’s curling up with a book on the soft, furry blankets beside the fire, while for others, it’s a chance to earn their turns while exploring the pass’s boundless ski terrain. Either way, a full day in or around the RMAL is often the highlight of the tour.
Day 4: The Highpoint and Hayden Lodge
Leaving the lodge and Red Mountain Pass, the route climbs steadily west in the direction of the Sneffels Range. The day’s high point crests at 13,350 feet, with sweeping views of the dramatic northern San Juan Mountains and the town of Telluride tucked into its tight box canyon. Along the way, an old miner’s cabin at Ptarmigan Lake is a reminder that the travels of adventurous souls long preceded this day’s tour.
The lengthy descent to the Hayden Lodge begins here, following extensive, rolling slopes that funnel into the Imogene Creek drainage. The recently renovated cabin and its modern additions provide a warm and comfortable refuge beside Richmond Creek. After multiple days of effort, visitors can soak in a wood-fired hot tub, listen to the nearby cascading water, and watch the sun set behind the impressive United States Mountain. Tired legs, full bellies, and happy memories characterize the end of the fourth day, making sleep come easily.
Day 5: The Barn Call
The final morning offers one last chance to tour the cirques of Richmond Basin before using gravity to move down-canyon. The route passes the active Camp Bird Mine before merging with the county road that leads to Ouray. Although the barn’s call can be powerful, knowing that vehicles and civilization are just ahead, the mountains must be respected to the very end. Challenging terrain and avalanche paths persist along the descent, demanding that minds stay sharp.
A Unique Tour
The Million Dollar Traverse is unlike most ski tours in the United States. While the European Alps have a deep tradition of staffed huts, few routes in the U.S. offer travelers the opportunity to pack light, eat expertly prepared meals, and sleep in comfortable beds. The exceptional ski terrain of the San Juan Mountains puts the cherry on top.
For those who understandably find judging avalanche hazard, choosing terrain, anticipating weather, and navigating the route as a daunting endeavor, the trip may be best experienced with a guide. While hiring a guide doesn’t guarantee a safe tour, it lends expertise in managing risks while sharing powerful experiences rooted in place. The local San Juan Mountain Guides is the only service that offers the traverse and can be reached at info@mtnguide.net.
Closing Reflection
And so, I return to that line of climbers stacked along the bootpack, each stepping in the holes kicked in by my friend and colleague. When they crest, each person gazes out at the sweep of peaks stretching endlessly toward the horizon. I witness as their eyes widen, their jaws slacken, and awe washes over them.
After many years of traveling in these mountains, the San Juans still take my breath away. The Million Dollar Traverse is more than just a hut tour; it is an opportunity to experience beauty, splendor, hardship, comfort, excitement, and community, and it’s an invitation to step into the living history of the San Juans.
By Aaron Ball
