The elevator pitch for Serafina’s is straightforward: “Fine dining that’s warm, relaxed, and not pretentious.” Serafina, the namesake and co-owner of the new downtown Durango restaurant, with her husband Bobby Middleton, described their goal when they first considered the space, formerly occupied by Red Snapper and just a stone’s throw from the back door of their recently acquired and well-established Chimayo.
Bobby and Serafina purchased Chimayo a few years ago, committed to maintaining the restaurant’s essence. Investing in Chimayo was an investment in the community, they said, helping them integrate as they relocated from Albuquerque, where they had lived for decades. Bobby, a research nuclear engineer, and Serafina, who holds a master’s in applied mathematics, had no prior experience in the hospitality industry. Moving to Durango and taking over Chimayo was a gamble that paid off. Their “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” approach meant they weren’t looking to reinvent the wheel, but they soon desired to create something original.
Enter the opportunity to create Serafina’s Steakhouse, or rather, co-create it. Their mutual enthusiasm for this venture, combined with a genuine love of steak, fueled their commitment to expand beyond the Southwestern staple. They acquired the open space across the alley and got to work. Their backgrounds in math and science provided the framework, but their lack of experience led them to rely on their greatest asset: the staff of Chimayo. They enlisted the help of Executive Chef Aaron Marshall, Kitchen Manager John DeAngelo, and Head Bartender Will Dick to align the cuisine and cocktails with their vision and design.
The atmosphere of Serafina’s embodies its mission. Deep wooden tones, the dulcet yet classy sound of a live player piano, and a water vapor-simulated fireplace as the dining room’s centerpiece encapsulate the essence of warm, relaxed, and unpretentious fine dining. The goal is to invite diners in for an enjoyable evening.
“We’re personal,” said the owner’s daughter and hostess, Aeliana Lawles.
“Chimayo is fast-paced,” Bobby added. “We want to allow customers to take their time and enjoy everything about the experience here at Sarafina’s.”
The menu at Serafina’s does not disappoint. Start with a traditional Caprese salad and fresh focaccia with port wine butter, or Alabama-style fried green tomatoes. The star appetizer is the tequila shrimp in a cilantro cream sauce, which Chef Aaron admitted is an homage to his training at the former local Francisco’s restaurant. Featured entrees include pink peppercorn halibut, succulent blackened scallops, a pork porterhouse, and the classic steakhouse offering of a perfectly prepared 14-ounce ribeye with a lobster tail. Surf and turf are on the menu, along with other prime cuts, like an eight-ounce beef tenderloin, a 12-ounce New York strip, and an eight-ounce bavette. The sides range from time-honored steak fries or mac and cheese to an amazing twice-baked potato served in a fried skin. For the reluctant carnivore, the Caribbean plantain gnocchi infused with reduced dark rum and brown basil mojito butter is a sweet and savory vegetarian superstar. There is a fried green tomato sandwich, but if you prefer beef, the bone marrow burger with Carolina gold sauce is a house favorite.
Complementing the inviting dining room is a snug, intimate bar. Four wooden barrels, each containing house-made mixers, set the stage. The beverage menu features wines ranging from $30 to $500 a bottle, eight premium tap beers, and a cocktail list led by barrel-aged gin, rum, Manhattan, and Old-Fashioned mixes. Will, the mad-scientist mixologist, has crafted some exceptional libations. The El Hugo Spritz combines Cimarron tequila blanco with St. Germain elderflower. Other tropical choices include a Mai Tai, Hurricane, Zombie, and red Sangria that could trick a vampire. The “Zero Proof” non-alcoholic options include spritzes, Pina Coladas, Jungle Birds, and a mate and soda that would dare a field sobriety test.
One might not have room for dessert after merely reading this, but if you do, finish with a classic homemade slice of chocolate cake à la mode or a traditional Irish coffee. A seasonal delight is the Palisade Peach pannacotta, but don’t wait until summer to book your table. A return visit to Serafina’s is assured. Combining the beloved steakhouse options with Southern and island-inspired flavor, it’s a new addition to Durango’s culinary scene and an instant classic variation of a familiar theme.
Serafina’s is located on East 9th Street between Main and 2nd Avenue. They are open Thursday through Monday from 4 to 9 p.m. Call 970-403-3122, or email gm@serafinassteakhouse.com for reservations.
By Matt Bodo
